Kimono Clothing

Arthur Golden, in Memoirs of a Geisha, describes the elaborate process a geisha went through to put on a traditional kimono in the early twentieth century.

The geisha would begin by tucking a silk slip called a koshimaki, or ‘hip wrap’, around her hips. This would be followed by a short-sleeved kimono undershirt, tied at the waist, and then pads would be applied (if required), like small contoured pillows with strings attached for tying them in place.

Next came the underrobe, which needed to be carefully coordinated with the pattern of the kimono, because as a geisha danced, she would often lift the bottom of her kimono with her left hand to prevent it trailing on the floor. Also, the collar of the underrobe was visible, like the collar of a man’s shirt under a suit. A collar would traditionally be sewn onto a geisha’s underrobe each morning and removed that evening for washing.

As for the kimono itself: they were the same length, regardless of who wore them, so, except for the very tallest women, the extra fabric had to be folded beneath the sash and tied with a cord at the waist, and, of course, the slightest buckle could never be shown. A skilled dresser could mould the kimono to make it perfectly and seamlessly fit the wearer.

Finally, the obi was applied. The obi was typically twice as long as a man is tall, and nearly as wide as a woman’s shoulders. This was tied around the geisha’s waist, and  held in place at the back with a half dozen clasps and cords and a knot.

The final result of course had to look perfect, without a single wrinkle visible anywhere in the heavy fabric.

Well, that’s the traditional method: you’ll be pleased to know that the kimonos recommended on this website are extremely simple and comfortable to wear and easy to care for, while maintaining a traditional appearance: they look simply stunning on the wearer.